Sewing Stitches for Beginners
Hand stitching is one of the essential sewing skills that any sewer must master and perfect in order to get those beautiful clothes done. While most modern machines have eliminated the need for hands-work, there are still many places where hand stitches are necessary for high quality finish. Remember the joy of making something with your own hands never gets old!
In this guide, we are going to discuss everything you need to know to get your first hand stitches.
Materials Needed
Sewing is one of the most enjoyable and cost effective hobbies. However, with so many sewing supplies, it can quickly become overwhelming for a beginner. While you will need an extensive range of supplies to get the job done perfectly, not all tools are essential. Here is a list of some of the materials you will need:
- Seam Rippers
Just like how its name sounds, a seam ripper ‘rips’ poorly done or unwanted stitches. It acts as the ‘eraser’ in sewing. As a first time sewer, it is only expected that your first set of stitches may not come out as you expect, and that is where your seam ripper will come in handy.
- Fabric Scissors
You will definitely need a good pair of sharp scissors to cut the fabric you want to sew. The sewing industry comes with different types of scissors and each has their unique function. We will get into much details with the others, but for starters, get yourself a good reliable pair of scissors.
- Embroidery Scissors
Embroidery scissors must be sharp at all times, otherwise, they will ruin the joy of sewing. Your scissors should never cut anything else apart from fabrics. Blunt scissors will chew your fabric and will slow you down even when cutting the smallest piece of fabric.
- Pinking Scissors
Pinking shears have jaw-like edges that are designed to cut the edges of woven fabrics , creating tha zig zag pattern. The main purpose of these shears is to prevent fraying. You will need this pair if you are working with light-weight fabrics
- Tape Measure
An obvious tool for any tailor or seamstress. Your tape measure will be your closest companion because you will need it when taking all your fabric measurements as well as measuring people and other objects. Just keep one around your neck when working, so you don’t have to keep looking for it.
- Thimbles and Band-Aids
First time sewing means walking away with several stab injuries on your fingers.Sewing for long hours can also lead to sore fingers,and that’s why you need a thimble. You can get a metallic one or a plastic one spending on your preference. Just make sure it fits perfectly.
- Needle Threader
Another essential tool to add in your toolbox is the needle threader. It is a handy tool that helps you thread both sewing machine needles as well as hand needles. It comes with a thin metal loop when inserted through the eye of a needle brings out the thread easily. So no more eye straining!
Types of stitches
- Cross Stitch
Cross stitch is one of the oldest stitches that have been around for ages, and also one of the easiest forms of embroidery for any beginner. Cross stitch typically comprises X-shaped stitches created on the fabric with an open and even weave weave. Depending on your design preference, you can choose either to go with the modern or traditional or somewhere in between. As a beginner, the best way to go about it is to get a cross stitch chart that will guide you on where you need to stitch, the colors to use and so forth. Cross stitches can be done on various fabrics but the most commonly used are linen and aida as they are known to fray when cut.
Cross stitch is worked in neat rows running from right to left. You can refer to your chart to get the areas to begin your stitching. Begin from the back and bring your needle up while creating hole towards the front. Leave behind an inch of thread at the back, you will cover these tails with your stitches as you work on securing it. Next, move diagonally from where you started and amake a half cross stitch and so on. Some designs require a complete cross stitch before moving to the next. If you are just practicing, it is quite prudent that you choose a straightforward design that you can work on and complete without experiencing hitches.
- Whipstitch
Whipstitch is one of the easiest hand stitches you will ever come across. It involves threading spirals around the edges of one or both sides fabrics. This type of stitch consists of short neat diagonal stitches which are mostly used in hemming. Once you have threaded the needle, arrange you two pieces of fabrics placing one on top of the other. Make sure the degs are even before you begin sewing. You also want to make sure that the inside part of the fabric is facing out. Start you stitching by sliding your needle through the top layer of the fabric while holding the two peaces carefully. Draw the needle up through the bottom of the top layer. The next needle should touch both fabrics and circle around the bottom layer of the fabric while piercing directly under the first hole. Draw your needle through both layers and make sure it comes out near the same position as your primary half stitch. Pass the needle beneath the bottom side on the fabric to make an angular stitch. Continue making the same stitches while mimicking the previous one until the end. When done, make your final full stitch and tea the finishing knot tightly to secure the stitches.
- Running Stitch
Another common and pretty basic sewing and embroidery stitch is the running stitch. The running stitch is the first stitch most learners start with as it is simple. Running twitch is an important stitch in many embroidery projects as it can be manipulated in different ways to achieve different results. From its name, running stitch is worked by simply running a threaded needle in and out of the fabric at regular intervals. The main concept here is ‘regular intervals. To make your running stitch, prepare your fabric and thread your needle. If you have made marks on your fabric, it makes things much easier as this stitch involves making stitches in straight line and allowing a reasonable space in between.
Bring your needle through the back part of the fabric and draw it to the front. Take the needle again down through the front to the back and use the needle to space and make your next hole at the bottom and draw it again to the top. Continue creating your running stitches while spacing the stitches evenly until you get to the end.
- Basting Stitch
Basting stitches, also known as tacking, are long, easy to remove running stitches that are made by hand or machine. Basting stitches are mainly used to hold two fabrics together before the actual stitching is done to improve accuracy and organization in the sewing process. You might think that it is a waste of time since you already have the measurements right? Wrong!
Basting stitches are quite important as they eliminate the need of ripping out permanent stitches which can easily ruin the fabric. They also allow you to test the garment for the psceific placements such as darts before permanent stitches are made.basting can also hold slippery fabrics together for you to ensure you do a neat job when sewing.
Since you will be making huge running stitches, you may want to use pins to hold the fabric as you stitch to ensure that you are stitching in the right direction. While pins can just do the job, heavier garments require basting stitches to make sewing easier. Since basting stitches are temporary, they do not need to be neat as they will be removed once the garment is sewn. To remove them, you only need to cut the knot and pull the entire thread.
- Ladder Stitch
The ladder stitch is a widely used stitch both machine made and handmade. That is why it has many names such as the blind stitch, the invisible stitch, the slip stitch and many other names. It gives a super powerful finish on collars and cuffs. You can also use it in bindings, applying an applique invisible, closing a lining or closing stuffed items like pillow cases and bean bags. To get these stitches, you need to essentially prepare your fabric like making marks and ironing the folds.
Next, place fabric whose seam allowances are folded towards each other. Begin your stitch by hiding your knot around the seam allowance. Pull your needle and thread make sure to thread out from the edges where you made the folds.Grab a small part of the fabric from underneath of the opposite side inside the folded fabric and pull your needle out.Insert the needle again from the other side and repeat the pattern till the whole fabric is complete.Remember, you need to follow the same pattern throughout to get this stitch correct. The secret behind getting the stitch correct lies behind where to stick the needle.. If you pierce the wrong side, you will need to undo in order to continue which can be utterly frustrating.
- Backstitch
Another popular and widely used stitch is the backstitch. Call it the savior of the day, this stitch comes in handy every time you have a torn blouse, shirt or ripped pant. Instead of rushing to your busy tailor who will only dump your garment in their store for months, you can fix your clothes pretty fast with some well-done back stitches. Backstitches are usually permanent, as they are used in seams to make them more stronger and durable. With that said, back stitches are the strongest stitches you can ever make with your hand.
From their name, these stitches are worked by running your threaded needle back and forth. Start by sticking your needle under the fabric and take a small space on the opposite side and drw your needle on the same side you entered as if you are holding a garment with a pin. Next, pierce your needle exactly where you had pierced when making the first stitch and this time draw your needle a bit further from where you drew the first one. Repeat the pattern making sure your stitches are tight and neat. The best back stitches have very small space between them, so make sure you are consistent. Also, make sure to use your thimble as back stitches can get your fingers quite sore with a few pricks.
- Blind hem Stitches
Blind hem stitches are exciting to do. The secret to making the best stitches is to make sure that your stitches are not visible from the outside–hence the name blind hem. These stitches are mainly used in hemming garments such as skirts, shorts and ladies trousers that are made of soft lightweight material. You can go with single or double hems depending on what you want to achieve. To make these stitches, you will need to measure your fabric and add about 2 extra inches for your hemming project. Fold and iron the hem of your stitch and prepare your needle. You also need to make a few markings with a pencil or chalk. Once you have the markings take your pins and put the pins in place across the hem to give you a feel of how the garments will look like when done. If you are satisfied with the results now iron the hem with pins again and remove the pins. Now, make your stitches by picking a single strand of fiber from the lower side of the hem and another on the upper side. Keep alternating till you are done stitching.
- Blanket Stitch
If you want to add eyelets or buttonholes using your hands, you will need to learn how to make the blanket stitch. Just like its name, blanket stitch is mainly found in blankets. To get this done, you need to thread your needle and make a tail knot. Send your needle right inside the fabric from the back side . To anchor it, Pierce sends the needle up from the back again so that it comes out through the same spot. Next, stick your needle under the loop you just created. Make sure your needle goes sideways at the edge of the felt. That will get your thread property anchored.
Now to make your blanket stitches,stick your needle down from the upper side of the fabric which is about an inch from where you first anchored your thread. Next, bring your needle up from the back and across the loop of thread. Before you pull to a tight stitch , make sure your needle has gone through the loop of thread.
- Conclusion
Stitching is an art and learning how to stitch using your hands is an exciting experience. With each practice you become more proficient in sewing and the more you learn the more you understand which stitches works best for which projects. Whether you are learning to be a proficient tailor or you simply want to learn something beneficial to help you fix your own garments, this knowledge will definitely add value to your life and will stay with you forever. Remember knowledge is power!