Investing in antique jewellery
The heart of the ocean (popularised by the 1997 film Titanic); Julia Roberts’ ruby and diamond necklace and James Bond’s Rolex. All iconic pieces of jewellery that have remained at the forefront of our minds for years. The list could go on and on, encompassing pieces of jewellery that range from demure to ostentatious, fictional to real. The right piece of jewellery can take on a life of its own, transforming even an ensemble that is old and drab into something glorious. Antique pieces lead the pack since, along with being worn on those rare special occasions, can also be displayed for its high level of craftsmanship and quality.
What is classified as antique jewellery?
Antique jewellery-not to be confused with vintage- are pieces that are over 100 years old. Their aesthetics and historical significance make them of immeasurable value. Think about that lovely brooch that has been passed down in your family for generations, which was given to your great-great-grandmother as a courtship gift! Or ‘the heart of the ocean,’ based on a real piece (the hope diamond), with a tragic history of curses and theft. Antiques are collected because of their age, beauty, condition, or even due to a strong personal connection to the object.
Why invest in antique pieces of jewellery?
Buy or not buy? That is the question. If you are still hesitant about buying antiques, here are some arguments that may make you reconsider.
Investing in antique jewellery has a definite advantage over buying more contemporary pieces. Antique pieces will most likely be unique due to a decrease in their commonness over time and smaller productions. What does this mean for you? There is a very high chance of owning something that you will never see elsewhere.
Antique pieces are also more than just jewellery. They are linked to specific periods in history and have stories to tell. There is also an inherent element of romance in owning and wearing a piece of history that cannot be attained with contemporary pieces.
I bet you never thought you were saving the environment by buying jewellery, but with antique pieces, you most definitely are. Investing in antique jewellery is a great way to reduce wastefulness through recycling.
Antique pieces of jewellery are almost exclusively handmade or hand-finished. They have an extremely high level of quality and artistry that is more refined than most contemporary pieces.
The current trend in buying antique pieces of jewellery
Jewellery trends have been changing for years, with some going out of the market and making a later comeback. For those buying antique jewellery, here are some expert tips on the latest trend. Keep in mind that fashion and jewellery trends often influence each other.
An increase in Art Deco inspiration on the catwalk and interior design trends preceded the resurgence of pieces from the Art Deco era: ranging from rings to necklaces and brooches.
Authentic jewellery from the Art Deco era was made in the 1920s and 1930s when designers tried to reduce the then traditional dominance of diamonds. Pieces also featured less-expensive material and had elaborate, yet elegant settings.
Art Deco jewellery will have some, if not all, of the following indicative traits.
- i) Geometric design
The technology for diamond cutting improved during the 1910s, and the pieces of jewellery created incorporated more geometric shapes and had an industrial feel. Articles from this time have clean lines and simple shapes.
- ii) ‘White jewellery.’
White metals- platinum and white gold-were favoured over yellow gold in the Art Deco era. Despite the use of white materials, jewellers also began to use darker materials, such as black onyx, that gave a higher contrast with diamonds.
iii) Colour
While a lot of jewellery from this period was black and white (from the use of onyx), Jewellers began creating pieces that were more colourful and with varied designs using other colourful gemstones such as sapphires and emeralds.
- iv) Calibre cut stones
Calibre cut stones are faceted stones that were custom cut so that they line up together perfectly with virtually no gaps between the stones or against the setting.
When buying antiques from the Art Deco era, look for any indication that it was made in the early 20th century, or you may end up going home with a replicate.
What types of jewellery should I invest in?
Building an antique jewellery collection can seem like a daunting task that will break our banks, but that shouldn’t be the case. Apart from researching sellers on the internet, arrange a face to face meeting with the dealer to discuss your potential purchase. Only go to a certified jeweller or a trusted auction house to reduce your chances of being duped. Additionally, buying antique jewellery requires thinking in the long term, so go for pieces that have a global appeal.
Here are different categories of jewellery that can help you kick-start your collection.
- a) A chain
Large, lightweight links of Georgian Era chains have made a return and are a huge current trend. Men’s watch, fob watch chains of the Victorian era are a great asset. Look for chains that are in their original length as they may have been cut down over the years.
- b) Rings
Rings are a must-have in any antique collection. Signet rings are often hand-engraved with family crests, motifs, and initials. And I am sure we have all seen dozens of epic films where seals and signatures are made by stamping the signet ring on wax. Go for a bigger or smaller style depending on your frame and finger size.
- c) Brooches
Brooches are also making quite a comeback and can now be used in myriad creative ways. You can go for a classic geometric cut from the Art Deco era or a Victorian-era style to wear with your gowns, dresses, blouses, sweaters, and in your hair. You can also frame a particularly stunning piece to make unique wall art and immediately transform the look of any room.
Types of jewellery you should avoid buying.
To avoid endless frustration when buying antique pieces of jewellery, here are some quick tips on what to avoid.
- Don’t buy just because they are trending at the moment. Buy pieces that you can see yourself wearing for a long time to come, and that will stand the test of time.
- Don’t buy pieces whose selling prices are too low. As the saying goes, “if it’s too good to be true, then it probably is too good to be true”. If the price is way below the value of the piece, then there is a high possibility you are being duped.
- Don’t buy pieces that won’t increase or retain their value over time. A great way to avoid this is by buying from credited and trusted designers.