FT4000T Learning Journal
19/01/15
The Marketing of Fashion: From Counter to Computer
Description
This lecture was about the history of shopping up to present day. We looked at the Industrial Revolution, where Britain’s physical landscape began to change from agriculture to industrial, and the new factories that created more work. The 18th century offered the tourist industry, offering leisure including seaside resorts and spas to people who can afford it. The birth of the department stores in the 19th Century. The opening of Bazaar in 1955 was the beginning of boutique shopping in the 60’s, which sourced second-hand Victorian and Edwardian clothing and accessories. To present day, mail order shopping and internet shopping, targeted for those who could not get to cities easily for shopping.
Feelings
This lecture made me feel quite surprised and I was happy that I gained a lot of new knowledge; I had never really thought about the history of shopping and trade before.
Analysis
Department store workers living in accommodation in the store building or boarding houses during the early 20th century, like slaves, left me uncomfortable. I have worked in retail for 5 years, and it makes me appreciate how easy we have it now.
Conclusion
In conclusion, today is a lot easier and faster to shop compared to the past. Thanks to mail order and online shopping, which was designed for those who could not get to the stores easily, shopping is now available to everyone 24/7.
Action plan
I plan to do more in depth research on 18th century shops and trade.
26/01/15
Seminar reflecting on last week’s lecture and discussion of group work activity. Groups will have two weeks to create a window display.
Description
This lecture was about the importance and effectiveness of Visual Merchandising and window displays. We looked at the importance of merchandising, techniques and outcomes.
Feelings
I find visual merchandising fun and exciting, putting together props, displays and clothing to create a theme or a story, using colour (complementary or contrasting), symmetry and balance, is something I find personally enjoyable.
Evaluation
I feel that the way you display garments and props in shops is very important, the presentation of the products help them sell quicker, makes it easier for customers to shop, and assists the customers with coordinating and accessorizing, which makes the shop more money as the customer is buying ‘add-ons’.
Analysis
I find the window display task will be quite easy, as I have had Visual Merchandising training, due to working in retail for 5 years.
Conclusion
Window displays are very important and effective in retail, if used effectively, they can bring you new customers, create customer loyalty, enhance the image and brand of your business, promote certain product lines and above all be a major selling tool in increasing sales. It’s the first thing customers see before entering your shop, so you have to make sure it is eye-catching and reflects the merchandising inside the store.
Action plan
Create own window display.
2/02/15
Description
This lecture was about Post war subcultures and the birth of the teenager. We first of all watched the Teenage (2013) trailer. Teenagers hadn’t been acknowledged until the mid-20th century, young people before the 50’s were unnoticed in society. ‘If childhood ends at puberty and adulthood begins at 18, what happens in between?’
Feelings
I feel saddened that young people before the 1950’s were almost invisible in society, although teenagers during the 20’s and 30’s were identified; they were not labeled as such. It makes me wonder what were young people like and perceived as before the 20th century?
Evaluation
The mid-century teenager created a new identity for this age group (13-18), which was recognized as important by the rest of society, the teen years have been defined as a period of preparation and self definition. The ‘Youthquake’ explosion in the 60’s was defined as fun, spirited and youthful, young people no longer dressed like their parents, they finally had their own identity.
Analysis
I don’t like the typical teenager stereotype analysis; that they spend a lot of money on clothes, records, concerts, make-up, magazines and all things that give immediate pleasure and little lasting use, even though in some ways its true, but not all teenagers are like that, I personally wasn’t. I had my first part time job at 14 and would save the minimal money I earned.
Conclusion
The ‘Youthquake’ explosion gave teenagers their own identity, and for the first time ever they could dress exactly how they wanted and not like their parents, thanks to figureheads such as, Mary Quant, Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton.
Action plan
Do more research on young people before the 20th Century.
9/02/15
Film Screening – West Side Story
Description
During this lecture we watched West Side Story and discussed the subcultural motifs in the film relating to the previous weeks lecture. There are two rival gangs – the Sharks who are originally from Puerto Rico and the Jets who were born in New York. Tony (who was originally in the Jets gang) and Maria (who is a family member of the Sharks) meet at a dance and fall in love but have allegiances with opposing gangs.
Feelings
West Side Story is full of doom and tragedy.
Analysis
West Side Story presents a bleak picture of modern society. The young people are alienated from the adult world and they do not have promising futures.
Conclusion
A teenage urban love story set to Shakespeare’s classic “Romeo and Juliet.
Action plan
Read the book version
16/02/15
Post War Subcultures
Description
This lecture was about post war subcultures such as, Teddy Boys, Mods, Skinheads, Hell’s Angels, Rockers and Greasers. Not all teenagers wanted to be a part of the mainstream, sought to differentiate themselves in behavior and visual characteristics, these groups have been identified as subcultures.
Feelings
During this lecture I felt excited, engaged and intrigued, as I have always been interested in subcultures, in particularly the Teddy Boys; I love how they grew heavily on American culture; initially from the style of American Wild West movies (saloon character, Mississippi gambler). And also how they listened to Country and Western music, such as, Hank Williams. These are all things I am inspired by. Bike Culture is another that holds my interest, their outlaw ethos and their customized jackets I find inspiring.
Evaluation
In the late 60’s, which were dominated by countercultural hippies, a new subculture appeared out of the Mods, they were the Skinheads. Skinheads had shaved heads, long sideburns, doc martens, Ben Sherman shirts, sheepskin and Crombie coats. Most people today think the Skinheads were racist, but they weren’t, it was a group of guys with a copied look later on in the 70’s/80’s who have given them this appearance.
Analysis
The Teddy Boys were the first real subculture to emerge after WW2, pulling their appearance together from a number of disparate sources. The media portrayed them and many other subcultures as violent thugs.
Conclusion
Each of the subcultures looked very different from the mainstream fashion followers, they stuck to their unique style like a uniform, and avoided fashion trends.
Action plan
More research on Teddy Boys and Hell’s Angels and finish watching Son’s of Anarchy, could influence final collection.
23/02/15
Do subcultures still exist in the postmodern culture? Seminar discussion.
Description
During this lecture we watched a documentary by Don Letts, ‘The Unique Story of British Music and Street style’. It showed a timeline of subcultures, from when the first subculture, The Teddy Boys, emerged after WWII, to today.
Feelings
I really enjoyed the documentary; it was interesting to hear the people’s stories that were actually in these subcultures or experienced them.
Evaluation
In some ways I don’t agree with the documentary stating that we no longer have subcultures, as there are many definitive groups in the youth, people dress themselves in a certain style, depending on their beliefs and music interests.
Action plan
Research to see if there are actually any subcultures today.
2/03/15
Post-War Youth culture – Psychedelia – Sex, drugs and rock’n’roll
Description
During this lecture we looked at Post-war Youth culture, in particularly the psychedelic era, looking at the origin of the hippies and the Mods countercultures.
Feelings
I found it interesting that hippies originated from the middle classes, coming from comfortable backgrounds and being well educated.
Evaluation
The working class teenagers began to cherish the power of spending in the late 60’s, as they and their parents had never had it so good before. Middle class and working class had swapped lifestyles.
Analysis
The Mods split into two groups, the hard Mods became skinheads, and the softer Mods took on the countercultural aspects of psychedelia.
Conclusion
The 1960’s were a decade hungry for change, and there was a rebellion against the old British culture.
9/03/15
Documentary screening: ‘I Hate the Sixties’
Description
During this lecture we discussed the ‘alternative 60’s’, questioning if the 60’s hippy era was all about peace, love and pot?
Feelings
I was shocked to find out how much Britain was in crisis during the 1960’s, I thought it was a decade for change in a good way, but there was so much negativity that was hidden well.
Evaluation
In the society of the 1960s, many people were oppressed and therefore could not live life how they wanted. There was a big rush for change, architects wanted the cities to be modern and began to build high-rise flats made from concrete. Communities didn’t like this due to the buildings looking unattractive and not homely, but they were ignored.
Analysis
The representation of life in the 60s is a common misconception. All that’s viewed is usually people having fun and spreading peace and love. However, according to Londoners living in the Swinging Sixties, ‘it was swinging in the shop windows, but not in the street’. From the outside, it looked a lot more exciting.
Conclusion
Looking back at the 1960’s, I realize that it had replaced reality with illusion, ‘broken promises and illusion’. According to the documentary ‘Why I hate the Sixties’, it was a ‘decade of destruction’ for Britain. Impossible to turn back this time, and now we today are still stuck with the consequences.
16/03/15
Dress Speaks Volumes
Description
In this lecture we looked at the relationship between youth, music and dress, how music influenced fashion, as opposed to subcultural style, which creates its own look and generates or adopts its own music style as a result.
Feelings
I definitely imitate some of my favorite musicians/artists style.
Evaluation
Pop music and fashion industries are regarded as sharing a close relationship.
Analysis
Postmodernism facilitated the fusion of new synth pop, the advent of the pop video and a dressing up style which drew on a surface historicism and gender ambiguity to create a rich visual pluralism. Beginnings with the birth of rock ‘n’ roll and finish with the Blitz Kids.
Action plan
Watch Elvis clips and David Bowie music videos.
23/03/15
Screening: Oh you Pretty Things
Description
During this lecture we watched ‘Oh! You Pretty Things: the story of Music and Fashion’ and discussed on the idea that youth style in Britain has been largely shaped by popular music, post World War II.
Feelings
I felt like I didn’t learn anything new in the documentary, I’ve heard it all before.
Analysis
Fans followed their idols (musicians/artists and designers) cool and crazy looks in Britain. In the 1960’s, Mod legends, the Small Faces, became the best-dressed band in England, while The Beatles and the Rolling Stones embraced psychedelia.
Conclusion
Popular music post World War II has heavily influenced fashion, From the 60’s to present day, it’s quite easy to spot what genre of music someone listens to, just by their style of dress.
30/03/15
Understanding Fashion
Description
During this lecture we reflected on the historical and contemporary fashion.
Feelings
I prefer garments with interesting detail that are special and hand crafted, not this cheap and fast fashion that we have today on the high street. It doesn’t last long and is a waste of money.
Evaluation
The 19th century began with the Romantic era where clothing was complex and throughout the century became increasingly structured. World War I ended and euphoria was the order of the day. Fashion responded by dropping waists to high hip levels and dresses became unfitted. While some gowns retained the design complexity of the Teens, the trend was toward Simplicity. By the mid 20th Century, clothes were a lot easier to make.
Analysis
The beginning of the 20th century sought sportswear.
The 1960’s Youthquake and new fabrics brought cheaper, disposable and much faster fashion.
Conclusion
Looking back at the timeline of fashion, I realize that before the 20th century, fashion was restricted to a certain style and very impractical. Throughout the decades, garments became simpler and more relaxed. Now, fashion is faster, cheaper and comfortable, you can wear whatever you want.